Hungary may not be blessed with towering mountains, but, by way of compensation, the earth’s thin crust allows healing hot water to gush forth almost everywhere you go. The Romans, no strangers to the good life, were the first to take advantage of this naturally occurring phenomenon, and Budapest also offers some of the finest examples of the “Turkish Bath” found anywhere. Today, a couple of contemplative hours in the local baths are part of the daily routine for many Hungarians – particularly those with arthritis, breathing difficulties and muscle pains. And despite their popularity with tourists, taking a dip in the baths remains a uniquely Hungarian experience. On Margitsziget and outside the capital, a number of spa hotels offer a comprehensive range of additional health, fitness and wellness services.
Gellért Baths
Of the 40 baths and outdoor pools in Budapest, the Gellért baths, around the back of the famous Gellért Hotel, are the most prominent and elegant. The indoor pool is a firm favourite with photographers and a familiar images of Hungary, consistently upstaging the huge and equally impressive entrance hall. But there is much more to the Gellért than just the Art Nouveau architecture. Slip into the separate men’s and women's warm pools, saunas and steam rooms for Turkish-style relaxation, or enjoy the sunshine and splendour of the outside pools, complete with a wave machine for the kids – and the big kids.
Lukács Baths
More functional than the extravagant Szécheny or Gellért baths, the Lukács (near the Buda side of Margit híd) is less frequented by foreign tourists, but no less hot, sweaty and relaxing. The extensive roof terrace is that little bit closer to the sun, the outdoor swimming pool is refreshingly cool and the second interior courtyard offers powerful bubble and jet massage.
Rudas Baths
The Rudas, near the Buda bridgehead of Erzsébet híd, is a men-only baths (although the outdoor pool is open to both sexes) built by the Turkish Pasha of Buda in the 16th century. Its soothing turquoise octagonal pool makes it all the more relaxing – and helps you come to terms with wearing nothing but a skimpy apron. Open Monday to Friday 06-20, Saturday and Sunday 06-13.
Palatinus
More of a playground than a spa, Palatinus is where Budapesters go to cool off in the height of summer. Expect to find young and old frolicking, sunbathing, eating ice-cream and drinking beer in this huge outdoor complex on Margitsziget.
From bar to bath
Guardian, January 12, 2005
Nick Hall finds hidden nightspots, thermal spas, and solemn reminders of the communist era as he visits Budapest
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