Breathtaking Budapest
You don't need to be in Budapest long to realise that you never know quite where you stand – and that's not because of the street layout. Everywhere you look, there is evidence of a city that has been brought to its knees – and restored to its former glory – time and time again.
Even today, it is littered with Roman remains, Turkish baths and Gothic and Baroque architecture, as well as elaborate secessionist (Hungary’s take on Art Nouveau) facades. But visiting Budapest is not just about discovering the past, it is also an opportunity to witness a city building its own bright future.
The most obvious way to begin exploring Budapest's extraordinary diversity is to view it from the Citadella on Gellért Hill, or from between the turrets of the famous Fisherman's Bastion in Buda's eclectic Castle District. A boat trip, a stroll or a ride on the number 2 tram along the embankment on the Pest side of the Danube is a great way to admire the hills of Buda and the giant Parliament building. Further exploration of the wealth of fascinating architecture in the hustle and bustle of Pest is also a must.
Then it's on to the real sightseeing. Must-see landmarks include Europe's largest Synagogue, the Szent István Basilica and the Buda Royal Palace – not to mention the Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge) and the dramatic statue of St Gellért, perched above Erzsébet híd (Elizabeth Bridge). The long walk down the majestic Andrássy út ends at Hősök tere (Heroes' Square), an extravagant monument to Hungary's key historical figures, and Városliget (City Park), which boasts a host of attractions of its own.
Budapest is not just a city of stunning buildings – many of its museums serve to highlight a history that is proud and unfortunate in equal measure. The imposing National Museum is impossible to miss, and the chilling House of Terror – the building used by both the Nazi and Communist secret police – is impossible to ignore.
The city is also packed with clubs, concert venues and festivals for music of every possible genre – and the Sziget Festival in August is Europe's largest and loudest. In addition to providing a springboard for home-grown talent, Budapest can now draw the world's top contemporary artists.
And not far from the traffic and noise of downtown Pest, Margitsziget (Margaret Island) is a hub for outdoor activities, and the tranquil hills of Buda are a haven for cyclists, walkers and families. And who could forget the relaxing and healing properties of the city's spas.
Wine and Much More
Eger
A renowned wine region, the lively town of Eger also has a proud history, defined by its heroic resistance to the Turks, which is immortalised by Géza Gárdonyi in his classic Eclipse of the Crescent Moon. Legend has it that just 2,000 soldiers defended the formidable castle in 1552, backed ably by the town’s womenfolk, who showered rocks, hot soup and boiling fat on the Turks below. The siege is also reputed to have given the local Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) wine its name. Although the town was eventually captured and ransacked in 1596, after its occupiers were finally expelled in 1687, Eger experienced something of a wine-fuelled revival. The town was rebuilt in the Baroque style. The cathedral is the most dominant building, but the town’s Turkish minaret is also worth a visit and provides striking views.
Hollókő
The strikingly restored black and white houses of the region’s Palóc people, an intriguing ethnic minority whose traditional dress varies from village to village, provide a unique view of Hungarian peasant life. The village has several museums displaying costumes, photographs, pottery, weaving and other arts and crafts.
Szilvásvárad
Nestled in the beautiful Bükk Hills, Szilvásvárad is the home of the celebrated Lipizzaner horses, considered to be the best riding horses in the world, despite their small stature. Not only are they very robust and graceful, they can also be trained to perform elaborate dressage manoeuvres.
Miskolc
Hungary’s third largest city has several interesting churches and synagogues to explore, but the cave baths steal the show a 20-minute ride away on the No. 2 bus. The outdoor complex, a series of atmospheric pools discovered in 1920, is tailor-made for wallowing.
Lillafüred
Twelve kilometres west of Miskolc, the tranquil resort of Lillafüred is best known for its neo-Renaissance palace hotel nestled in a lakeside forest. The village’s two stalactite caves also attract visitors and the surrounding area lends itself to hiking.
Tokaj
Stunningly attractive and quaint it may be, but Tokaj is all about its wine.
Villány-Siklós Wine Region
The beautiful, rolling hills of the Villány-Siklós region produce Hungary’s most prestigious red wines – some of which are more than a match for the biggest French names. Like many of the country’s wine-growing regions, Villány has a history that goes back well over 1,000 years – in fact, references to local wine production have been found here amongst Roman artefacts. The production of red wine, however, was largely started by immigrants from Serbia in the 1700s, who brought with them the Kékfrankos grape variety and new methods of production. Today’s winemakers use indigenous grapes, but have also introduced international red varieties like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Pannonia (Transdanubia)
Hungary is divided in two by the Danube, which flows from north to south. As a result, the Magyars, who arrived from the east, refer to the country's western side as Dunántúl, Hungarian for “beyond the Danube” – which is where the name Transdanubia originates.
Even further back into history, the region was conquered by Roman Emperor Augustus in 35 B.C. A number of today's towns were originally Roman settlements and there is plenty more evidence of their stay in Pannonia, as the province was known.
At least as far as tourism is concerned, the region now has a Balaton-shaped hole in the middle, which actually makes it rather difficult to define. Generally speaking, since the regime change, northern Transdanubia has developed faster than other parts of the country as a result of its proximity to Austria. This is reflected by the rapid development of spa hotels and golf courses, which have attracted foreign investment and holidaymakers in equal measure. High-quality, low-cost dental treatment is also a boom market.
Historically, the areas to the north west were also spared the destruction and economic stagnation brought by the Ottoman Empire. Although the Habsburg monarchy and oppressive feudal economy were by no means popular, a number of impressive baroque castles were built to demonstrate the might of landowners, most notably Eszterházy. The cities of Kőszeg, Sopron, Győr and Tata kept much of their medieval charm and added a generous helping of Baroque splendour. Further east, most towns have their own fortresses, each with a unique tale of brave but ultimately futile resistance. Remarkably, the Benedictine Abbey at Pannonhalma is a survivor from the tenth century, and incorporates plenty of diverse architectural styles to show for it.
To the south of Lake Balaton, the rolling Mecsek Hills are excellent for cycling, hiking or horse-riding, but it is the red wine region of Villány-Siklós that steals the show, with the area around Szekszárd not far behind. The beautiful old town of Pécs, one of Hungary’s liveliest, is an ideal starting point for exploring the area.
The Great Plain
Kecskemét
Best known for its tradition of distilling Barackpálinka (apricot brandy) and as the home of Zoltán Kodály, Kecskemét is also a university town and centre for the arts, and one of the Puszta’s most attractive cities. Largely spared during the Turkish occupation, Kecskemét developed into a religious and cultural melting pot, which is reflected in its eclectic architecture today. The central square alone boasts a former synagogue, the Hungarian-style Art Nouveau Cifra Palace (fittingly, “cifra” is Hungarian for “tawdry” or “ornate”) and the impressive Kecskemét Art Gallery. Just down the M5 motorway to the south east and easily accessible by train, it is also the gateway to the Kiskunság National Park and a great starting point for excursions on horseback.
Kiskunság National Park
Classic Puszta country, the Kiskunság comes complete with traditional shepherds, a rural museum, farm and stables, where csikósok – Hungarian-style cowboys – crack whips and perform bareback stunts in traditional dress. The farmyard animals are not the type you are used to either, grey long-horned cattle and Mangalica pigs are an added attraction. By following one of the marked trails, you can also take in the local wildlife, including water buffalo, that may be hiding in the reedy marshland.
Szeged
Down by the Serbian border to the south east, the university town of Szeged has a relaxed charm. It originally flourished on the back of the salt trade but was destroyed by the great flood of 1879 and consequently rebuilt in style. The huge square in the city centre, with its even larger cathedral, is the focal point and plays host to the city’s lively summer festival. The city is steeped in history at every turn, but also boasts a recently restored thermal baths --Anna baths-- to rest those tired sightseeing feet. The main square is dominated by the Art Nouveau tower of the City Hall. The monumental Moorish-Art Nouveau New Synagogue is one of the most beautiful Jewish temples of Europe. The majestic atmosphere of its interior is provided by the white-gold-blue ornamentation.
The surrounding area is also famous for its paprika, flora and fauna, inquire at the Tourinform office about bird-watching trips to the Fehér-tó Nature Reserve, horse riding, angling, boating, hiking and cycling.
Ópusztaszer
In the 9th century, the legendary Ópusztaszer in the village of Szer was the place where the conquering Hungarian tribes gathered to hold the first national assembly and adopt the first laws. The statue of their leader Árpád stands in the National History Memorial Park. The greatest attraction here, visited by hundreds of thousands, is the Feszty Panorama, one of the largest paintings in the world, portraying the 'Entry of Hungarians' into the Carpathian Basin. The panorama, created in 1894, depicting approximately 2000 people on 1760 square metres, gives a special experience of space.
Debrecen
Hungary’s second most populous city retains strong Calvinist roots after local leaders brokered a deal with the Turks to keep the Catholics out. The Déri Museum contains folklore exhibits and some of artist Mihály Munkácsy’s finest work. The best time to visit is during one of the city’s festivals, such as the Spring Festival in late March, the flower carnival on the August 20 public holiday, and the four-day Jazzfesztival in mid September.
Hortobágy National Park
Flat as a Hortobágyi pancake – a local meat-filled, sauce drenched speciality – the local landscape is famed for its low horizons and occasional mirages. Here Hungarian Grey Cattle, stud horses, the spiral horned Racka sheep and buffalo herds graze on the open pastures. In addition, the Rare Breeds Park showcases the region's unusual domesticated animals and the Szálkahalom Nature Reserve also puts on horse shows and carriage rides for visitors. The area of the Hortobágy National Park became a World Heritage site in 1999.
Lake Tisza
In the middle of the Great Plain, Lake Tisza is the second largest surface of water in the country and is known for its smooth water, huge bays, diverse backwaters and islands, rich fishing and wild stock.
The Lake is situated on what was a flood-plain, and on the flooded territory of the River Tisza. In between water dams, there are sixteen islands and ten water channels. The shallow water areas, which warm up easily, are suitable for bathing. The deeper parts are idea for water sports such as sailing, water skiing and surfing. Lake Tisza is also the only lake in Europe where you can speed around on a powerboat or jet-ski. Along the riverbank (approximately 50 miles) there are recreation areas, open-air baths, campsites and places to hire equipment.
The bird reserve of the Tiszavalki Basin is a strictly protected area and home to more than a thousand pairs of herons, egrets, night herons and cormorants. River tours start from any of the 15 ports.
Szolnok
History has ridden roughshod over Szolnok, situated along the Tisza River. Everyone from the Mongols to the Germans and Soviets has laid waste to the town, but it maintains a proud. laid-back and arty feel and is home to some of the country's finest Art Nouveau buildings. The Gulyás Festival in early September is the highlight on the Szolnok social calendar.
Kalocsa
This pretty town, 120 kilometres south of the capital, is known as Hungary’s paprika capital and for its traditional flowery embroidery and painting. The neighbouring paprika fields become a spectacular sea of red in early September. Kalocsa is a good stopping off point on the way to the Hajós Pincék.
Hajós
A bus ride from Kalocsa, this is Bacchus’s dream – an entire village devoted to wine cellars. 1260 of them, to be precise. Best of all, no one actually lives here, so you can make as much noise as you want. The local Swabian population has been fermenting their produce here for centuries, and they celebrate the coming harvest on the weekend nearest May 25.
Baja
The quiet riverside town of Baja, 41 kilometres south of Kalocsa, comes alive in the second Saturday in July, when the locals cook up 2000 cauldrons of fiery fish soup in the huge market square. Expect more of the same during the Autumn festival in September, with theatre, dancing and concerts added to the mix.
Eger-Tokaj Wine Region
Wine enthusiasts will be familiar with the names of Eger, the source of strength-giving Bikavér (Bull's Blood), and the picturesque town of Tokaj, with its world-class dessert wines and down-to-earth rustic atmosphere. For the tee-totallers among us, Eger boasts a historic castle and beautiful Baroque town centre, and both towns are great starting points for walking, cycling or riding tours around wooded hills of the Bükk. The Aggtelek stalagtite caves, the museum village of Hollókő, the castle hotel in Lillafüred, the intact Romanesque abbey of Bélapátfalva and the Miskolc Tapolca cave spa are particular highlights. The Bükk and Aggtelek National Parks are also a Mecca for bird- and butterfly-watchers and nature lovers. For those of an equestrian bent, the Lippizaner horses made famous by the elaborate dressage routines of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna are bred and trained at Szilvásvárad.
Eger Wine Region
The wine region around the attractive Baroque town of Eger is often associated with Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), a robust red wine the Turkish invaders believed to have strength-giving properties akin to Asterix’s magic potion. Wine has been made here for over 1,000 years, and a new breed of winemakers is successfully blending traditional techniques with modern methods to put Eger back on the wine map.
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Tokaj Wine Region
The world-famous Tokaj-Hegyalja region lies in the foothills of the Zemplén mountains in the far north-east of the country and extends over the Slovakian border. Easily accessible from Budapest by car or train, the picturesque town that gives the region its name is the perfect base for exploring the surrounding winegrowing villages. What’s more, there are plenty of hotels and guesthouses to choose from.
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Around Budapest
Budapest is a fascinating and vibrant city, but there is plenty more to see in the coutryside. The most obvious tours are to the artists’ colony in picturesque Szentendre and the famous Danube Bend, taking in the former religious centres of Esztergom and Visegrád to the North, all of which can be reached by boat. The small town of Gödöllö, just 30 km east of Budapest, is the site of Hungary’s largest Baroque mansion and a great location for a concert and a picnic on the grounds. The HÉV (urban railway) will take you there from Örs Vezér tér.
Szentendre
The delightful Baroque old town of Szentendre is packed with galleries and museums, as well as a host of homely restaurants and pleasant outdoor cafés. The cobbled streets, secret gardens and attractive townhouses are worth exploring in their own right, and you don't need to venture far up the hillside to find a local vineyard and a spectacular view. A summer festival of concerts and dance performances begins in late June and culminates on Saint Stephen's Day on August 20. The Skanzen open-air museum, 4 kilometres to the west of Szentendre, is Hungary's largest collection of rural architecture and is designed to give visitors a feel for life outside the capital.
Visegrád
Your first glimpse of Visegrád as you approach by boat will be the eye-catching ruins of the citadel, perched high above Danube Bend. Making the trek to the summit is a must, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the river below. The small town below, Solomon's Tower and the Royal Palace to the north hark back to Visegrád's hayday before the Mongol invasion and are also worth exploring. The surrounding hills offer panoramic hiking for those with more time and energy, as well as a summer bobsleigh course.
Esztergom
Another 25 kilometres up the Danube from Szentendre, Esztergom is famous for its imposing hilltop Basilica and its memorable location on the Danube. The home of Hungarian Catholicism and formally the state capital, the town is steeped in a history stretching back to the days of Saint Stephen. The town maintains a uniquely Hungarian charm that is manifested in a glut of traditional restaurants.
Pilis and Börzsöny Highlands
The hills around the Danube to the north of Budapest are a perfect escape from the traffic and noise of Budapest and offer a natural world easily accessible by HÉV for day-trippers looking to stretch their legs. The colours of Autumn enhance the rolling woodlands further and sharp-eyed visitors have a good chance of glimpsing a deer or wild boar.
The Royal Palace in Gödöllő
Just 30 kilometres east of Budapest, the impressive Baroque mansion was the summer residence of Empress Elizabeth (known affectionately as Sissi). Today, it provides a breathtaking backdrop for concerts and opera performances all year round, including the Baroque Palace days in August, the International Harp Festival and the Franz Liszt Piano Festival.
Lake Balaton Wine Region
Lake Balaton is primarily a summer holiday destination, but the people who come to laze on the beach often overlook the fact that they are surrounded by some excellent winegrowing country. Four wine producing regions share the shores of the lake, Balatonfelvidék (the Balaton uplands), Balatonfüred-Csopak and Badacsony on the hilly north shore, and Balatonboglár to the flatter south.
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5-star Hotels
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4-star Hotels
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3-star Hotels
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Birdwatching
Hungary is rapidly developing into one of Europe's most popular birdwatching destinations. The secret of its success, both with humans and birds, is the diversity of unspoilt terrain, including large expanses of water and marshland and its position on the migratory flightpath.
For much, much more information, check out the Birding Hungary website or visit Ecotours, Hungary's number one incoming operator for birding.
The moniker Puszta (meaning Land of Desolation), which covers the eastern half of Hungary, stuck after the region was ravaged during the Turkish occupation and laid bare by systematic deforestation. Today, the Great Plain is Hungary's agricultural heartland and home to hundreds of small villages and rustic farms. It is also famous for its equestrian culture, ever since their arrival in Europe from the Steppes in the late ninth century, the Magyars have been known for their legendary horsemanship. The whip-cracking cowboy (csikós) lifestyle still lives on in the Puszta and today's visitors are traditionally treated to impressive bareback horse shows – and given the opportunity to saddle up themselves. The vast national parks of Hortobágy and Kiskunság are home to several rare species of wildlife, and some unusual indigenous domesticated animals. The Puszta also lies on the main migratory routes of cranes, geese and wading birds, as well as being the most westerly example of the flora and fauna normally found in the Eurasian Steppes. For water babies, the River Tisza and adjoining lake offers excellent fishing, swimming and canoeing. The region's rustic nature and forgiving landscape makes it a great place for exploration by bicycle.
In addition to its natural diversity, the region has its fair share of historical cities, and Kecskemét gives ample Art Nouveau evidence of a prosperous past. Debrecen is the country's second largest city and is an important sporting venue hosting a variety of international events, as well as Hungary's premier jazz festival. In the south east, the Szeged Summer Festival is a popular celebration of diverse performing arts – all against the formidable backdrop of the city's huge neo-Romanesque church. The beautiful wine cellars of Hajós, an entire village dedicated exclusively to high-grade intoxication, the traditional Fish Soup Festival in Baja and the Szolnok Gulyás Festival are unmissable food and drink highlights.
Hotels in Bük
Radisson SAS Birdland Resort & Spa*****
Golf and wellness spa resort in Western Hungary.
www.radissonsas.com or www.buk.radissonsas.com
Danubius Thermal & Sport Hotel Bük****
Spa resort in Bükfürdõ, 19 miles from the Austrian border. The town is famous for its excellent thermal water.
www.danubiushotels.com/buk
TIHANY
Club Tihany****
The Club (Holiday Centre) is situated on the shore of Lake Balaton. Hotel rooms and bungalows for families, wellness, fitness facilities.
H-8237 Tihany, Rév u. 3.
Website: www.clubtihany.hu
Tata
The compact town of Tata, a convenient and worthwhile stop-off on the road from Budapest to Győr, centres around Öreg-tó (Old Lake) and its attendant moated castle, riding school and mill. For centuries, the town was inhabited by Bavarians and Swabians and the lingua franca was German, but the town does have its own English garden.
Győr
Győr’s location halfway between Vienna and Budapest makes it an intriguing blend of east and west. A you enter the town, industrial estates and residential tower blocks make way for a flourishing baroque town. All of the city’s sights, most of them architectural, are within a short walk through pleasant pedestrian streets. The town is an ideal launchpad for a visit to the Benedictine Abbey at Pannonhalma.
Sopron
The Austrian border town of Sopron is a treasure trove of listed buildings and monuments, due, in no small part, to a lack of destructive interference from the Turks. The symbol of the city, and of the local beer Soproni Ászok, is the firewatch tower, built to give warning of a blaze anywhere in the city. Today, it is a great place to admire the glory of Sopron – and the surrounding wine country - from above. In summer, the Cave Theatre in the Fertőrákos limestone quarry to the north makes a strange and enchanting concert venue.
Kőszeg
One of the highlights of the region, if not the whole of Hungary, Kőszeg has an impressive history of military brawn to go with its good looks. The sleepy town, just three kilometres from the Austrian border, is credited with saving Vienna from the wrath of Süleiman the Magnificent in 1532. But the medieval castle, named after the victorious leader Miklós Jurisics, is just one of many memorable sights, including a plethora of churches and a former synagogue. Walkers will also discover a number of attractive villages in the surrounding countryside and the luxury Birdland Golf and Country Club in Bük is not far away.
Pécs
This arty student town lies at the foot of the Mecsek Hills in the south of Hungary has no shortage of impressive architecture and an mind-boggling variety of museums and art galleries. The synagogue, renovated in 1980 in memory of the large Jewish population that was all but wiped out in the holocaust, is one of Pécs’s most memorable and haunting buildings. Must-see sights also include the Csontváry, the Vasarely and the Zsolnay museums. Pécs is also in one of Hungary's wine-growing heartlands – it is no surprise that the elixirs of Villány and Szekszárd are served up in the town’s many lively bars and restaurants.
Two-wheel Tours
Hungary is a relatively flat country, making it ideal for cyclists of all standards. Almost all regions of the country can be explored by bicycle – although combining wine tasting with cycling is definitely not recommended. Tourinform offices will provide you with a cycling map featuring twelve recommended routes, as well as information on hotels and guesthouses along the way. Cycling Around Hungary, published by Frigoria, provides much more comprehensive information, including hire and repair shops, as well as some 100 suggested routes.
Budapest
The hills of Buda may be steep, but they are a great way of burning off all those hearty meals enjoyed in downtown Budapest. The views from the various peaks are well worth the effort, and, don’t worry, there is ample opportunity for refuelling along the way. If you cycle north to the Danube Bend, via Margitsziget and the Hajógyári sziget (Shipyard Island) it won’t just be the effort of pedalling that will take your breath away.
Balaton
One of the best ways to take in the sights and sounds of Lake Balaton is along the recently completed cycle path. The breathtaking views come thick and fast, and there is always somewhere to unsaddle for a drink, a swim, a meal and a good night’s rest. Outside July and August, accommodation is also very easy to find, leaving you free to explore to your heart's content, and stop off wherever you please.
Recomended bike tours
Bicycles can be rented from Balatonfüred, Kossuth utca 32,
3,000 Ft/day or 2,000 Ft/half day.
Northern Uplands
The hills and forests of the Northern Uplands offer more challenging cycling and are better suited to mountain bikers. The region is strewn with small villages and ruined castles to reward the more adventurous, and there are plenty of exciting off-road trails in the Mátra and Zemplén hills.
Puszta (Great Plain)
The Great Plain, as its name suggests, is very forgiving for cyclists, and is filled with rustic charm and unspoilt nature, as well as its fair share of quirky sights and traditions. The sheer size of this quintessentially Hungarian region makes it rather daunting, but a copy of Cycling Around Hungary will help you find the route to suit your interests and ambitions.
BUDGET Accommodations
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Would you like to learn more about the Eger and Tokaj region? You can download an e-brochure here or visit the the region's website.
2005 January-February
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Tokaji Aszu
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